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I have used recycled neckties (the silky, slinky ones) for hand applique by using some simple stabilizing techniques. To make small circles (for grapes), I used the colored self-stick "dots" you can get at an office supply store. Stick a circle over the area you want to use and cut about 1/4" around the circle. You can cut shapes from any temporary self-stick (but not TOO sticky) material to hold the shape you want - pin down the seam allowance and use needle turn and tiny stitches to apply and then remove the stuck-on shape.
When you line a jacket, it is important to add some ease (extra fabric) in the upper back as well as length. To add ease to a lining that is made from the jacket pattern pieces, I place the back pattern piece on the fabric fold with an additional 1/2" of space between the pattern line and the fabric fold. Then I sew a short 1/2" tuck at the neckline to leave extra fabric at the shoulder blades. If not using hem facings, I add about 1/4" to the length for the lining pieces to prevent sagging in the jacket.