Fran's Tip of the Week

Shirts & ties

Mon, 21 May 2012 09:08:10 -0500

A fun recycling project is to make a quilt using recycled neckties and recycled men's dress shirts. The shirts make a great background fabric for the neckties, or use the well-worn ones as foundation fabric for foundation piecing with the neckties. Stabilizing the neckties with HTC'c Touch O' Gold II makes the bias-cut ties easier to work with.

Fabric grainlines

Mon, 14 May 2012 08:53:04 -0500

If you making a garment that is not quilted, grainline becomes more important. The lengthwise grain of a fabric - parallel to a selvage - has little or no stretch, whereas the crosswise grain - selvage to selvage - has a little stretch. It is preferred that the pieces of a garment be cut on the lenthwise grain IF they won't be interfaced or otherwise stabilized.

Loose dyes in ties

Mon, 07 May 2012 09:23:23 -0500

Many silk ties have loose dyes that can cause stains when washed. I use a combination of precautions with every load of ties I wash, whether red or not. First, I add a couple of tablespoons (or a generous splash) of Retayne to every load of ties in my washer. I also toss in a color catcher sheet to absorb any loose dyes that get away before the Retayne sets them.

How to handle ease in a seam

Mon, 30 Apr 2012 10:13:03 -0500

If you have to ease in some fullness in a seam, there are a couple of things you can do . First, use a gathering stitch over the part to be eased before pinning the parts together. Pin that area well to distribute the fullness throughout the easement area. Then sew the seam with the fullness next to the feed dogs, taking care to avoid sewing any pleats into the seam. And pull the pins out as you come to them - don't sew over them!

Using a whole tie

Mon, 23 Apr 2012 17:32:45 -0500

I learned something today when I tried to remove the interfacing from a tie without removing the thread holding the tie together first. It can't be done, and I wanted to use the tie whole without the interfacing. After removing the stitches and interfacing, I will reassemble the tie, possible with a piece of muslin or my favorite HTC interfacing before sewing the seam back up (by hand). Then I can use the tie for the purpose I intended without the bulk of the heavy interfacing used in the tie construction.

What kind of interfacing?

Mon, 16 Apr 2012 17:22:23 -0500

There are lots of choices for interfacings - both sew-in and fusible. I personally prefer a fusible interfacing because I can use just what I need, instead of extending it to seams if I don't need that much. I also prefer a fusible knit interfacing because it doesn't give me problems with shrinkage. Everyone has their favorite. My favorite for rayons or other light-weight fabrics is HTC's Touch O' Gold II, which I have mentioned before for use with neckties.

Raw edge applique with ties

Mon, 09 Apr 2012 09:17:26 -0500

One of my favorite recycled tie applications is a simple raw edge applique. I cut the ties into long 1/2" wide strips. These can be easily sewn to a foundation in curves and other shapes by stitching down the center with a straight or decorative stitch. The edges are bias, so even though they may ravel a bit, they won't shred completely. Stack 3 or 4 and sew down for a chenille effect!

When to interface

Mon, 02 Apr 2012 08:28:52 -0500

Interfacing is used to add stability to a garment and improve the drape. It is usually used down the front of a jacket or shirt, in collars (all parts), shirt cuffs, and waistbands. Use a weight that is compatible with the fabric you are using in your garment - the packaging will have this information. In a quilted garment, the batting and quilting stitches add the stability, so you don't need interfacing.

Those wide ties

Mon, 26 Mar 2012 09:48:41 -0500

Make a small bag from one of those wide 1970's polyester ties: Open the tie and cut about 15" from the wide end. You can then add more lining to the existing lining. Finish the end opposite the tip. Fold that end up to the angle at the start of the tip, folding in the finished edges as necessary to meet the raw edges. Finish the sides and make a handleby binding the sides with the ends of a 44" - 54" x 2 1/2" binding strip. Finish the handle as though it were binding.

Layers for quilted garments

Mon, 19 Mar 2012 09:28:18 -0500

I use a variety of different middle layers for my quilted garments, depending on the seasons I want to wear them and how much definition I want in my quilting. For warmer weather or for wear with sweaters, I like to use either muslin or well-washed flannel. This gives a lighter-weight garment, but doesn't allow much definition in the quilting. For more definition or for colder weather, I like a thin cotton batting with a lot of drape. Quilter's Dream Cotton Request is my favorite, but I have used many others to good result. I usually use a lighter layer in the sleeves, like muslin or flannel.

Another skirt waistband

Mon, 12 Mar 2012 08:57:04 -0500

The other simple waistband is a band. This method needs a zipper at the band opening, so don't use it if you don't want to sew in a zipper. I use a stable polyester tie and stabilize it further with interfacing to prevent stretching. For a 1 1/4" wide band, cut a strip from the tie that is 3 1/4" wide and about 3" longer than your waist; fold in half lengthwise. Mark the length of your waist on the tie from 3/8" from one end. The extra length goes on the back left side. Sew one side to the right side of the skirt, press the seam toward the band, then sew the ends and fold the band over the seam. Stitch in the ditch on the right side. Add hook and eye or button & hole.

Thread for sewing garments

Mon, 05 Mar 2012 13:21:42 -0500

I may have already mentioned this, but it bears repeating. When you are constructing garments, be sure to use a good quality 50 wt. polyester (or comparable) thread. Cheap thread is cheap for a reason - seams will not hold for long if the thread isn't any good. Patchwork for gaments can be still be sewn with cotton thread, but don't use it for construction.

Skirt waistbands

Mon, 27 Feb 2012 09:35:27 -0500

There are 2 waistband styles that are fairly easy to make for a skirt. The first is a gathered band: Cut a strip from a sturdier tie (piecing if you have to) that is as long as the top of the skirt is around and about 3" wide. Fold in half lengthwise, raw edges and wrong sides together. Open and sew the ends together to make a band, leaving an opening from the about 1" long from the fold. Sew to the top of the skirt with a 3/8" seam and finish the raw edges with an appropriate stitch. Cut a piece of 1" wide elastic 1" longer than your waist and insert into the band. Overlap the ends 1" and stitch. Close the opening. Another style next time...

Interfacing a shirt collar

Mon, 20 Feb 2012 11:20:47 -0500

Collars should be interfaced for body, but only on the facing side. If the collar is meant to stand up, then the interfacing should be stiff enough to allow that while still allowing the collar to curve around the neck. A casual shirt collar needs only a light-weight interfacing. Also, the weight of the interfacing should match the shirt weight; for example, a rayon shirt only needs a sheer-weight interfacing, while quilt-weight cotton needs light-weight.

Skirts from ties

Mon, 13 Feb 2012 09:35:21 -0500

There are several skirt styles that can be made from ties. For a shorter skirt, decide how long you want the skirt and cut either the narrow ends or the wide ends to that length, plus a seam allowance for a waistband. The narrow ends will give you a more-or-less straight skirt, while the wide ends give a full skirt. Or you can make a long tulip skirt by cutting the tie to use the wide end as the hem and cutting to your ankle or mid-calf length. Use another heavier tie (like a textured polyester) for a waistband. More on that later...